Life is different in the never ending news cycle and pandemic. I’m no longer interested in harsh, laborious skincare routines. I also don’t care to go back to wearing make-up every day, emboldened by a Zoom filter smoothing out spots better than the Paris filter. Instead, I want to focus on healthy and radiant skin even if my skin tends to have other ideas in mind. Anyone else discovering stress spots and chin pimples thanks to wearing a mask all day? Anyone?
My struggle with acne really started in my mid-20s resulting in daily whiteheads and painful cystic hormonal formations around my chin. The battle for clear skin has continued despite entering my 30s. I gravitate toward clean products as someone who has sensitive skin and as a person who composts, uses natural home cleaners and eats clean. I’m down with Korean beauty, plant-based and whatever “natural” means—as long as it works. I’m combating the often embarrassing appearance of acne and refuse to trade a clean beauty routine for effectiveness. Thankfully, we can have both.
My Hero products
Looking for the basics? I use a gentle Cleanser followed by The Ordinary’s Niacinamide 10 + Zinc and Plant-Derived Squalane each morning.
End the night with four drops of Granactive Retinoid 5%, although 2% strength will do in a pinch. The rest is For us overachievers.
I’ve landed on the following clean-ish beauty routine by testing a lot of products for those of us who want simple ingredients for glowing, clear skin. My skin isn’t perfect, so why should my natural routine be? Instead, I focus on discarding harmful or irritating additives for gentle and effective beauty products that won’t break your budget. I’ve also compared ingredients in each of the following skincare recommendations and used the EWG Skin Deep database to determine if products are rated safe to use.
My biggest revelation for acne-prone skincare is that while it’s a daily task, it doesn’t have to feel like a chore. If blemishes are your daily struggle, then here’s what I’ve learned.
Exfoliation is the key to clear skin
Clogged pores are my nemesis. Proper exfoliation with gentle chemical methods will help prevent blemishes and allow creams to better penetrate your skin barrier. Don’t bother with harsh face scrubs. Over-exfoliation can cause further irritation.
My skin drastically improved once I introduced the Dr. Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Pore Perfecting Cleansing Gel ($38) into my routine. The gel contains hydroxy acids for exfoliation, including glycolic acid and farnesol, a natural alternative to the acne-fighting darling benzoyl peroxide. The cleansing gel has a cult following for a reason. Just ask Byrdie, I’ll wait. due to the ability to balance skin using willow bark extract for additional pore-clearing power and snow ear mushroom to keep skin hydrated.
When I was 29, an older coworker told me she LOVED her Clarisonic. I now understand why. If you’re in your early 20s, pass go and keep your $200. Don’t waste your time on your baby-soft skin with this next step. As a 30-something, I love the Clarisonic Mia ($99), which adds a visible glow when combined with the foaming cleanser. The bad news, is the company has discontinued this product. Le sigh. You can also find the brushes on the aftermarket.
The Clarisonic is the most expensive element of my routine but well worth the investment. Seriously, it’s like a personal trainer for my dull, sleep-deprived face. I use two to three times per week with a to remove dead skin and loosen clogged pores that cause acne. You can thank me later.
Go easy on your skin
I realize a Clarisonic is not meant for true exfoliation (don’t come for me!), unless you use an exfoliating brush head. If a towel can cause mild exfoliation, then be aware this deep clean should be used responsibly. Don’t apply additional pressure and let the vibrating facial brush do the work for you.
2. Switch up your clean face wash with the seasons
As someone with sensitive skin, I alternate in the winter between Dr. Dennis Gross cleansing gel with the Mia and then a gentle cleanser without fragrance the rest of the week during seasonal changes, such as DHC’s Deep Cleansing Oil ($28, rated 1 the highest score by EWG). Yes, I’m recommending a cleansing oil because this option isn’t comedogenic, meaning it won’t clog your pores and could be actually beneficial for people with acne. If you haven’t heard of DHC, it’s a Japanese brand build around olive oil, a natural anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial, and other natural ingredients that keep your pores scrubbed and moisturized.
Switching to Dr. Gross for days with the Clarisonic only in the winter helped keep my skin clear without the tight, itchy feeling of other acne washes I’ve tried. I also live in the mountains, so more moisture is always needed. If you’re so inclined, you can do a double wash with the Deep Cleansing Oil first to rinse off the day and your makeup. You can then follow-up with DHC’s Cleansing Foam ($10) or Origins Checks and Balances Frothy Face Wash ($24). Both act as refreshing stand-along face washes.
3. Hydration will lock in your glow, so use products for acne-prone skin
I’m all about that glow. It might sound crazy when combating oil reserves on your nose to focus on moisturizer. Keeping my skin hydrated with non-comedogenic products—aka won’t clog your pores— has been a game-changer. For years, I skimped on moisturizers leaving my skin parched out of fear of causing a pimple on oily skin. To make matters worse, I’d dry out my face with acne-specific foaming cleansers and spot treatments. This lead to further breakouts as my pores ramped up sebum production to balance out my parched skin.
There are so many better options. I start with a few drops of The Ordinary’s Plant-Derived Squalane ($7.90) on a clean face, a killer bargain that lasts a long time. Squalane is approved for blemish-prone skin because it is non-comedogenic and mimics the natural oils on our skin. The squalane oil might also be enough hydration for certain skin types, and if not, I suggest the following creams.
I’m also a big fan of Avene Skin Recovery cream gentle enough for even hypersensitive skin and the lightweight DHC’s Rich Moisture ($35) featuring squalane and royal jelly. Despite the name, DHC’s Rich Moisture offers a light texture ideal for the daytime. Plus DHC still sends catalogs in the mail with free old-school single-serve samples to my house. It makes me want to party like it’s 1999. So, win-win. #NotSponsoredButOpenToIt
Experiment with (affordable) skincare boosters
4. Experiment with skincare boosters to zap blemishes without hurting your wallet
I’m hooked on all the potions. I also became grown and started a day-versus-night approach. If you’re thinking, there’s no way I’m adding another step, hear me out. If you crave a glow in the morning, then these are worth an extra step or two.
Boosters and serums can make a skincare routine get pricey and quick. I’ve starred wistfully at the True Botanical line too many times to count. I’ve experimented with Vitamin C, smoothing acids and hydrating oils to wake up with smooth, dewey skin. Plus, the following are cost-effective and last a long time for the size. Add one or all of these into your rotation before you slather on the moisturizer. Rotate between day and night, just not all at the same time.
If you buy one product to use in your routine? Make it The Ordinary’s Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% blemish formula. Say goodbye to bumps, blemishes and uneven skin tone. The bottles now come in 2 ounces. I stock up every November when the brand has its month-long sale as an alternative to Black Friday.
If you’re going to add one booster, then make it a Retinoid. I prefer the less irritating retinoids, as opposed to traditional retinol that often cause peeling and irritation. I usually buy The Ordinary Granactive Retinoid 5% ($13.80, but stock up because it does go out of stock) but the Retinoid 2% is good as well. Each reduces uneven skin tone, bans blemishes and fights aging. Its efficacy is reduced in sunlight, so wear this one at night right after your cleanse.
Detox and hydrate your skin with Sea Buckthorn oil is derived from a orange berry. Your face might be the same color with a few drops. Wear it at night after your retinoid or before your moisturizer. I wear mine during the day since I work at home adn don’t want to stain a pillow. Shop small with Vitruvi’s Sea Buckthorn ($25.50), and the brand’s other gorgeous oils. Get the budget version here.
Boost dull skin with Vitamin C. I mix The Ordinary’s L-Ascorbic Acid Powder ($5.80) with a few drops of The Ordinary's Plant-Derived Squalane and with Restruvertrol 3% Ferulic Acid 3%, if I remember. Life saver if you’re fighting wrinkles or sun spots. Start cvery other day, especially if using other boosters. Vit C could dry you out.
5. Spot Treat Pimples Right Away
Despite all my concerted efforts, pimples do happen. Thanks to social distancing, and let’s be real, budget limitations, heading to a dermatologist to get a cortisone shot isn’t an option right now. Spot treatments are the next best thing by stopping further inflammation with a low dose of Salicylic acid. I’m a fan of all of The Ordinary products, including M-61 PowerSpot Clear ($18), and pimple patches such as Cosrx ($6) and Acnedote from Alba Botanica ($7.99) since I can pick it up at Target.
I also love that the patches come in two sizes and have the benefit of keeping blemishes protected from the urge to pick. Yes, I sometimes pop my pimples. No, I don’t recommend it, especially when it comes to cystic acne. Instead, pimple pitches allow you to set and forget.
6. Try a clean skincare face mask once per month
I’m into the occasional face mask when I convince myself it’s the self-care I need. Grab yourself a tub of the Aztec Secret Healing Clay ($7.99) and splurge by mixing with apple cider vinegar. Its tingly powers will make your skin baby soft. Highly recommend watching Netflix to boost the overall feeling of relaxation.
If you’re bold, try The Ordinary’s—see a theme yet?—exfoliating acids AHA 30% + BHA 2% Peeling Solution to use a couple of times a month. Blemishes and scaring doesn’t stand a chance, but you can burn your skin off. Seriously. Closest I’ve ever gotten to my limited understanding of a vampire facial.
Acne might be a sign of what you (can’t) digest
Yes, some blemishes such as cystic acne and spots caused by bacteria are legit. What we consume also makes a difference to our skin.
7. A healthy gut leads to clearer skin
For my overall gut health, I take probiotics and prebiotic supplements every morning to protect my flora and skin. While there are plenty of options at Whole Foods or your local grocery store these days, I’m a believer in Seed symbiotics delivered monthly to my house in compostable and recyclable packaging. I can tell the difference in my skin and use diet to help balance the rest.
A note about diet: After waking up with a pimple too many mornings after eating ice cream or a cheese spread, I gave up dairy for good two years ago. Yes, really. I’ve never looked back, almost. Dairy replacements such as ghee, plant milk, nut “cheese” and coconut everything makes life worth living. Plus, if I’m want to splurge on vacation or dining with friends, it’s that much more satisfying when I have it.
Sugars are much harder for me to resist. I don’t pretend to be perfect with this one but decided instead to be thoughtful about the sugars I do consume and reduce where I can. Wine, you bet. Chocolate one day per week, great. Oreos at the break-neck speed I can consume a bag? Hard pass. A breakout is a not-so-friendly reminder to take a step back and see how many snacks I’ve been mindlessly consuming over the week.
A Few Extras to Consider
Sunscreen can be a minefield, so choosing products that are safe for your skin and the ocean is crucial. Boasting ratings top ratings for safety including Raw elements Sunscreen Face Stick SPF 30 and Raw Elements tinted moisturizer.
Eye cream won’t get rid of acne but the buttery creaminess gives me a luxurious feeling that I imagine explains how the other half lives. Eye cream also will keep your skin hydrated, and hopefully, stop under-eye bags from dragging on the floor. I adore Naturapathica’s Vit K Brightening Eye Serum. The decadence is real.
After reading this review, I’m dying to try this Dr. Gross LED therapy light device to clear pimples onsite. It might burnt your face or entertain your cat, no idea.
I bring rosewater spray with me whenever I travel. Rose water is also my ultimate way to de-stress sitting at my desk while staring the blue-light screen like a drunk moth. Goop-ify it by throwing in some tiny crystals like amethyst or rose quartz. Every spritz feels real fancy.
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Stay tuned for more wellness and beauty tips.
KP
